Friday, April 24, 2009
Dalai Lama & Surf
I arrived at parking at around 9:30 ish. Saw lots of police officers, CSO's, and men arriving in shuttles & luxury cars dressed in top of the line all black suits. I suspect the men in black suits were security. Asked one of the CSO's if something happened, and he said nothing. Then after finishing up my 3 hour session, I asked another security guy and said the Dalai Lama was giving a talk. It made sense because I remembered seeing flyers for it. Quite odd, I had my camera with me but didn't figure to take photos. So that's cool, Dalai Lama right next to my surf spot, giving a speech or something.
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
Friday, April 17, 2009
Friday, April 10, 2009
Thursday, April 9, 2009
Swell Analysis
Early Morning Sunday, small, but still fun. 4ft swell @ 11 second periods. Direction was 297-296 degrees. Surf height: waist high, maybe a few plus chest sets came through.
Monday 5:30-7:30PM. 4.5 - 5ft swell @ 15-14 second periods (14 later on). 298-296 degrees direction. All according to wetsand swellwatch. I'm not sure if the direction is accurate.
Crowded & breaking away from the point, good waves great near the kelp bed. Chest high waves.
Tuesday morning. 6ft swell, 13 seconds from 292 degrees.
Blown out by 10after. Toasty & good. Chest high with a few head high sets coming through.
Monday 5:30-7:30PM. 4.5 - 5ft swell @ 15-14 second periods (14 later on). 298-296 degrees direction. All according to wetsand swellwatch. I'm not sure if the direction is accurate.
Crowded & breaking away from the point, good waves great near the kelp bed. Chest high waves.
Tuesday morning. 6ft swell, 13 seconds from 292 degrees.
Blown out by 10after. Toasty & good. Chest high with a few head high sets coming through.
Tuesday, April 7, 2009
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